Chicken Noodle Soup

There is nothing in this world like homeade soup. In fact, it was really one of the first culinary tasks I decided I had to have just right. My mom always made the best soups...chicken and rice, vegetable beef with barley, turkey noodle. All of them were simple in ingredients, yet completely rich and robust. My first attempts were mute. No flavor. After a few varied attempts I got it though, and have been happy as a clam with it ever since. The key is a good stock. A store-bought broth will be okay here. But, like everything else, homeade is so much better! This makes a large batch..but not HUGE. A dinner and a couple of lunches worth.

Chicken Noodle Soup

1 lb shredded or diced chicken (white or dark meat)
3 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 small onion, diced
2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
1/2 lb pasta (I like "homeade-style" egg noodles)
3 quarts chicken stock (recipe follows)
2 tsp olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper

Heat olive oil in a large dutch oven or stockpot over medium-high heat until shimmering, 2 minutes or so. Add carrots and onion, and saute for 3 minutes or until onions are translucent. Slowly add in the chicken stock, and bring to a boil. Once boiling, add the chicken as well as the pasta. Lower heat to a simmer. Cook for about 15 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Stir in parsley, and season to taste with salt and pepper before serving.

* I usually just pull the meat off the chicken carcass before I make the stock to use in soup. If there isn't enough leftover, do not fret! Just roast a couple of bone-in breasts or thighs in the oven (rub with olive oil, season with salt and pepper...425 for 40 minutes) and use that instead.

Chicken Stock

carcass from chicken (meat reserved)
1 large onion, quartered
4 carrots, halved
3 stalks celery, VERY roughly chopped
2 tbsp kosher salt
8 whole black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
1/2 bunch parsley leaves and stems
2 tbsp olive oil
4 quarts water

Heat olive oil in large dutch oven or stockpot over medium-high heat. Add in onion, celery, and carrot. I do not bother to peel anything, celery leaves are cool, and for the parsley - use those leftover stems! The beauty of stock is that you turn trash into treasure. Saute your veg for about 5 minutes or so, a little color on them is a good thing.

Nestle the chicken carcass, and any additional scraps, bones, etc. into the vegetables. I will add leftover pan sauce or gravy if I have that as well. Slowly add enough water to cover the carcass. Add salt, peppercorns, bay leaves and parsley. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce heat to low. Cook as long as you can, stirring occasionally. 8 hours is preferable, but you have a pretty decent result at 6.

Strain into a large bowl, cover, and refrigerate overnight. I actually use a pitcher. It fits into the fridge better, and it's narrower at the top so it's easier to remove the fat that has settled at the top. The next day, use a large spoon to remove the fat layer from the top before using or freezing. This gives the stock a much better flavor, in addition to removing unnecessary calories.

Too many tomatoes!

I planted quite a few varieties of tomatoes this year. Most of them are heirloom varieties (Brandywine, Mortgage Lifter, Old German, Anna Russian) but I was fortunate enough to find the kind of sauce tomatoes, the San Maranzano. They are very similar to roma (or plum) tomatoes, but are a bit meatier and less acidic. At any rate, I have them coming out of my ears at this point, and decided to make a fresh tomato sauce. With this heatwave we've been having, I diddn't want something too heavy. I decided a fresh tomato sauce tossed with pasta would be perfect. I used penne rigate, that I had cooked just short of al dente. Then, I added the cooked pasta to the sauce and cooked for an additional minute or two. Topped with some good parmigiano-regiano cheese, and some basil for garnish. Ahh, I'm going to miss summer!

Fresh Tomato Sauce

2 pounds fresh San Maranzano or Roma tomatoes, peeled and chopped (any tomato will do, I used a large Brandywine in my last batch)

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 tsp. fresh garlic, minced

1 tsp. kosher salt

8 fresh basil leaves

Heat olive oil until shimmering over medium high heat. Add garlic, and cook 30 seconds. Add fresh tomatoes and salt, and stir. Once the sauce begins to bubble, reduce heat to low. Cook for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has reduced to the desired thickness. Tear basil into smaller pieces and add to the sauce in the last few minutes of cooking. Can be stored in an air tight container in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Chicken Marsala

I found this recipe for Chicken Marsala from Cook's Illustrated a few years back. Over the years, I've made some adjustments. I think I've got it down to just about perfect now. If you like a thicker sauce, prepare a slurry of cornstarch and cold water, the add that to the sauce after you've melted in the butter. Serve atop a bed of fettuccine, with a side of fresh sauteed green beans. Absolutely delicious! Recipe can easily be halved by just using 2 chicken breasts instead of 4. I'd recommend using the same amount of sauce though. Enjoy!

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
kosher salt
ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 slices of bacon or pancetta, chopped
2 cups white or cremini mushrooms
2 large garlic cloves, minced (about 1 tbsp.)
1 tbsp. minced shallot
1 tbsp. tomato paste
1 1/2 cups Marsala wine (sweet)
1 1/2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice (1 small lemon)
4 tbsp. unsalted butter cut into 4
pieces, room temperature
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley leaves

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position, place large heatproof dinner plate on oven rack, and heat oven to 200 degrees. Heat 12-inch heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat until very hot (you can hold your hand 2 inches above pan surface for 3 to 4 seconds), about 3 minutes. Pat chicken breasts dry. Meanwhile, place flour in shallow baking dish or pie plate. Season both sides of chicken cutlets with salt and pepper; working one piece at a time, coat both sides with flour. Lift breast from tapered end and shake to remove excess flour; set aside. Add oil to hot skillet and heat until shimmering. Place floured cutlets in single layer in skillet and cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, flip cutlets and cook on second side until golden brown and meat feels firm when pressed with finger, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to heated plate and return plate to oven.

2. Return skillet to low heat and add pancetta; saute, stirring occasionally and scraping pan bottom to loosen browned bits until pancetta is brown and crisp, about 4 minutes. With slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to paper towel--lined plate. Add mushrooms and increase heat to medium-high; saute, stirring occasionally and scraping pan bottom, until liquid released by mushrooms evaporates and mushrooms begin to brown, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and shallot Saute for 1 minute. Add cooked pancetta and tomato paste. Stir while sauteing, until tomato paste begins to brown, about 1 minute. Off heat, add Marsala; return pan to high heat and simmer vigorously, scraping browned bits from pan bottom, until sauce is slightly syrupy and reduced to about 1 1/4 cups, about 5 minutes. Off heat, add lemon juice and any accumulated juices from chicken; whisk in butter 1 tablespoon at a time. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and stir in parsley. Pour sauce over chicken and serve immediately.